Navjeevan-New Life: Trip to Kumbakonam Navagraha Temples

The road leading to Guru sthalam at Alangudi.

28th, April 2010.

I had returned from office at 8PM and I was taking rest. Feeling bored, I decided to watch TV before having my dinner. I was browsing through TV channels and I came across an interesting programme related to Hindu mythology. It was about the mythological story related to Lord Sukran, Maha Bali and Vamana avtar. As per mythology, Lord Vishnu took his 5th avtar as Vamana, a dwarf Brahmin to humble the rich king Maha Bali who threatenned to overpower the Devas. Vamana approached Maha Bali and asked for bhiksha which was three footsteps of land. Sukran being the Guru for Maha Bali knew the conspiracy behind it as he had the ability to anticipate what could happen next.

He also knew that the person in disguise was Vishnu. Mahabali was a rich prosperous king and he was surprised why the puny dwarf Brahmin asked only for three footsteps of his land. Considering Bali’s wealth, the Brahmin could have asked more land, jewels, money and food. Sukran warned Bali that he is suspicious about this Brahmin’s strange request and advised him to ignore his request. But Bali had the habit of not saying "NO" to anyone who approached him for a favour or alms. He decided to agree to the Brahmin’s demand of giving land. The background story is that Maha Bali so powerful, the Devas in heaven felt that he would soon conquer all worlds. So the devas prayed to Vishnu and Vishnu advised them not to worry and He would take care of Maha Bali. To prevent Maha Bali from becoming powerful, Vishnu took this avtar to outwit and humble Bali.


The weather was cloudy and it was drizzling.

As per rituals, water is sprinkled from kamandalam (a jar filled with water carried by sages) and that indicates the whole hearted approval for the donation. To prevent Bali from doing this act, Sukran changes himself into a bee and gets inside the kamandalam to prevent water from coming out. When Bali tries to perform the act of sprinkling waters, water doesn’t come out of the nozzle. Vamana realized this and takes a darbha (a leaf) and inserts it into the nozzle of the jar to clear out the obstacle. Sukran who was already hiding inside in the form a bee gets hurt and loses one of his eyes. Vamana then proceeds to show his universal cosmic form and keeps one leg on earth and another leg on heaven. He asks,"Where shall I keep my third leg?". Bali kneels down and shows his head. Vamana keeps his third leg on Bali's head and pushes him down to the undergroud world.

I was amazed when I heard this story. I have heard of this many times, but this time I thought differently. I was impressed with Sukran’s love for his devotee Maha Bali. Sukran was the Guru and Guru means teacher. He loved his disciple so much that he volunteered to help him even when he wasn’t listening to his warnings. This reflects the relationship between a mentor and a disciple. There is so much to be learnt from ancient traditions. It might sound a bit foolish, but I went ahead and planned for this trip to Kumbakonam because I wanted to see Kanchanur where Lord Sukran resides. I also planned to cover the remaining Navagraha temples which I didn’t see earlier during my previous trip. There are many people who visit this temple for various reasons, but I visited simply because I liked Sukran’s affection towards his devotee Maha Bali. Maybe I need to learn a lot from Hinduism.


Alangudi Guru Temple entrance.

I had already visited 5 Navagraha temples in 2008. The remaining temples were Suryanar Koil near Aduthurai, Sukran Temple at Kanchanur, Guru Temple at Alangudi and Chandran (Moon) Temple at Thingaloor. I knew that this trip was going to be fantastic. I don’t know why, but I felt so and I was very very excited. There were no tickets available for the onward journey so I decided to travel in unreserved compartment. I got a side lower berth for my return journey in 6854 Cholan Express.


April 30th, 2010.

I reached Egmore at 2200hrs. I accidentally met my colleague Prem Sagar who was going to Tiruchi that night. After having a few words with him we both departed towards our respective platforms. I went towards the platform where my train’s rake was expected to be shunted in. My plan was to board 2793 Egmore-Madurai Express. If I wasn’t able to board it due to excessive crowd, my back-up plan was to take 6175 Kamban Express which departs at 23:15hrs. Luckily, I managed to get a window-seat in the unreserved compartment of 2793 Madurai Express. I waited anxiously for 30 minutes and my train finally departed at 22:45hrs. I was excited as this Navagraha temple trip has been pending long time.

Since my childhood I had travelled through suburbs many times in express trains, but I haven’t got bored. Its lots of fun to be in an express train tearing past small stations at high speed without stopping. I enjoy every bit of what I observe. My train negotiated the curve between Saidapet and Guindy at high speed and it was a treat to observe the entire train in a curve at night time with all compartment lights switched ON. My train skipped Tambaram and its next halt was at Chengalpet. At Chengalpet, a lot of people got in and my compartment was a bit crowded with people sitting, sleeping on floors. Few of them were sleeping even under the seat. Last minute decisions to do trips would lead to situations like this. Travelling in unreserved could be tough sometimes.

I was awake till 1AM and shortly before Villupuram, I went to sleep. I had no choice than sleeping in sitting posture. My sleep was never continuous and I woke up several times before my train reached Kumbakonam. If my memory is right, my train reached Kumbakonam around 5AM and it was late by nearly 40 minutes (I guess). It was raining heavily outside and I waited for a few minutes at the station. The rain never stopped, so I decided to take an auto to a nearby lodge.

I didn’t have an umbrella with me, so I had no choice than taking an auto. Walking in rain is not really advisable. I knew autos would be expensive unlike Kolkata. The auto guy seized this opportunity as it was raining and demanded a good Rs.70/-. I reduced the rate to Rs.50/- through negotiations. I went to the famous ARK Lodge and found out that there were no rooms available. After searching in a few lodges, I found an accommodation in a lodge near Kumbeshwar temple. It was a non-AC single bed room with restroom and it cost me Rs.125/- per day. It was indeed cheap.

I refreshed myself quickly and got ready in 30 minutes. My first destination was Alangudi-Guru temple. I had heard that visiting this temple brings good news, talents and punyam. I have also heard that one who is blessed for 14 generations could only enter this temple. I hoped and I desired that I could be one of them. It might sound a bit stupid for my readers if they hear that I believe these stories, but I prefer to be and live like a villager.


Guru bhagwan, Alangudi.

I would like to recollect my past in which I studied in a highly modern school with wealthy people around. Even today some of my friends inquire why I am like this. So simple, without any modern thoughts, wearing only formals, formal shoes. Why am I not wearing reebok shoes, t-shirts with slogans like “So many girls no time, Drink water save beer, Intel inside Idiot outside”? Why am I not going to Spencers Plaza with girlfriends? Or why don't I have a GF first of all? Why am I not boozing, smoking, colouring my hair in Bollywood style? Why am I not going to Discs, DJ’s?

I have got only one anwer. “I don’t know”. Anyway, I don’t mind if this world calls me a villager.

I came to Kumbakonam bus stand and boarded a bus to Alangudi which was 17km away from Kumbakonam. The rain had stopped, but the weather was still cloudy. I loved the atmosphere. “Ammadi, aathadi, unna enakku thariyaadi”. Cinema songs were running in full volume! The bus driver was in an aggressive mood. He started driving the bus at high speed and within a few minutes we were out of the town. The scenery was fantastic. Lush green fields, small ponds, coconut trees, banyan trees were a treat to my eyes as my bus rushed towards Alangudi. After half an hour, I got down at Alangudi. The temple was 0.5km away. I was in no hurry. I took my own sweet time to walk through the village. The atmosphere impressed me very much. Kids were playing with tyres, small girls were playing with pups, women were carrying water pots in their hips, men in dhotis were going towards their farm. This is the Tamilnadu which I admire at heart.


A small Vishnu temple at Alangudi located very near to Guru temple.

After crossing a few small streets, chasing a few hens, I spotted the temple at a distance. Within a few minutes, I entered into the temple. I felt honoured. This is one of my life’s greatest moments and I cherish this even today. This is the sthalam of Guru Bhagwan and the presiding deity here is Abathsahayeswarar and His consort is Elavarkuzhali Ammai or Umayamma. The temple name is Abathsahayeswarer swami temple. The story of the Devas and Asuras churning the celestial ocean or the parkadal is related to this temple. During this churning, a deadly poison in the name of “Halakala” was created. Lord Shiva consumed that poison here to save the world. Hence the name Alangudi: Ala meaning poison. The Lord himself came to be known as Abathsahayeswarar (one who helps in crisis) as he saved the world from impending danger. ‘Gu’ in Sanskrit means darkness and ‘ru’ means the destroyer of that. Hence Guru means one who destroys darkness or one who enlightens. Thus Guru is one who leads you from the darkness of ignorance to the light of knowledge.


Inside Vishnu temple at Alangudi.

There was a small Vishnu Temple nearby and I paid a visit to it too. The temple was well maintained and clean. Lord Vishnu was seen in standing posture and looked brave and majestic. After spending a good 45 minutes in the temple, I returned back to the bus stop and boarded a bus back to Kumbakonam.

My next plan was to visit Thingaloor-Moon Temple or Chandran. Thingaloor is situated 39km away from Kumbakonam. At Kumbakonam, I again boarded a bus towards Thingaloor. This was the longest bus ride ever in my life. The bus was very slow. Infact, I thought that the bus engine would die any moment. It was damn old and poorly maintained. After 90 minutes ride, I got down at Thingaloor. It took 90 minutes to cover 39km!! You can now guess the condition of the bus! The temple was 3km away from bus stop and I walked on a small neat clean road for nearly 30 minutes to reach the temple. There were lots of trees, green bushes, fields on the sides of the road.

I was amazed at the diversity in human civilisation. One part of the country has got tall buildings, bridges and another part of the country has small huts amidst temples. I was also pained to observe that few people live in diet, while most live in poverty. This mystery could be unraveled only by an enlightened soul.

It is believed that Lord Chandra worshipped Lord Shiva here(at Thingaloor) to save him from a curse and gained his blessings. Hence it is believed that those who have any Chandra Dosha in their horoscopes can get relief from suffering by offering prayers and performing pujas to Lord Kailasanathar, Goddess Periyanayaki and Chandra Bhagwan. Devotees who worship Lord Chandra are blessed with good health, mother’s welfare, and get rid of the stress and sorrow in daily life. The temple is roughly about 1500 years old. Built in the 7th century by Pallava King Rajasimha, this ancient Shaivite shrine reflects the early Dravidian architecture. A huge Nandi is seen in the front, facing the temple.

I lit 7 ghee lamps at this temple and went around the temple thrice. Had a good darshan of Lord Chandra and other deities. Though the Navagraha temple is famous for Lord Chandran, the main deities here are Kailasanadhar (Lord Shiva) and Periyanayaki (Goddess Parvati).

On way to Thingaloor-Chandran temple. The scenery was awesome!

During my brief sojourn at Thingaloor, I befriended a 45 year old researcher from ISRO named Gunasekharan. He was originally from Salem but settled in Trivandrum. He was also visiting all Navagraha temples spread around Kumbakonam. We both were together for the next 3 hours and we discussed about various topics related to Navagraha temples around Kumbakonam. We reached Kumbakonam at 1400hrs. The weather was still cloudy. I felt lucky. Tamilnadu is never cloudy during the month of May! This was certainly my day!

I had meals at Vasantha Bhavan at Kumbakonam bus stand along with Gunasekhar. It was fantastic experience. While visiting South India one should always have meals especially at places like Thanjavur, Madurai and Kumbakonam. The amount of warmth, hospitality one gets is more than in high funda places like Chennai. Gunasekhar noted my number and we agreed to keep in touch. We bid goodbye and separated.

I went to Canara Bank ATM and withdrew Rs.800. I thought it would be necessary. I returned to Kumbakonam bus stand again. My next destination was Sun Temple at Aduthurai, 15km away from Kumbakonam. I boarded a bus bound towards Mayavaram and within 25 minutes, I was at Aduthurai. But the Sun temple was situated in a remote location with limited bus connectivity. I booked an auto for Rs.100/-. The driver said that he would take me to the Sun Temple and Sukran temple (Venus) and bring me back to Aduthurai bus stand. I thought it was a good deal for Rs.100/-. Morever, it was a reserved auto and he agreed to stop anywhere any time and there would be no waiting charges. I didn’t want to stretch myself further as I had walked a lot from morning.

Small road leading to Thingaloor Moon temple.

Sun Temple located at Aduthurai was crowded. I purchased flowers, coconuts for archanai. This standalone temple for Suryan has shrines for other planets as well. This is the only temple which has got separate shrines for all 9 planets. The temple is famous for Lord Surya or Sun God. However, the method of worship at this temple is different. There is a particular order of darshan which has to be followed.

Devotees are first required to have the darshan of Prananatheswarar and Mangalambigai at Thirumangalakudi before visiting Suryanar Koil. This temple is just 1 km from Suryanar Koil and is situated in the same village. I didn’t know about this! After taking bath in the temple tank or at least a prokshanam, we should first worship the “Kol theertha Vinayakar”-Lord Ganesh. Then the devotees should worship Lord Nataraja. Then we should proceed towards the main sanctum to worship Visalakshmi & Kasi Viswanathan before worshipping Sivasuryanarayan (Surya). After worshipping Suryan, one should worship Guru Bhagavan who is facing Sivasuryanarayan. Now, the circumambulation or the pradarshanam procedure changes. We can now go in an anticlockwise direction and worship Saneeswaran, Buthan, Angarakan, Chandran, Kethu, Sukran and Raghu before worshipping Chandikeswarar. Then we proceed in a clockwise direction and return to worship Kol Theertha Vinayakar. This may seem very confusing but there are arrows at the temple to guide the devotees. I followed all procedures except taking bath at temple and visiting the nearby Prananatheswarer temple.

I was a bit eager to taste “Goli Soda” which is quite famous in South Indian towns. I went to a nearby shop and I was glad to find that goli paneer soda was available. It was awesome! The lemon juice added gave that extra kick!

My auto man was waiting for me faithfully. If it was Chennai, I would have been charged separately for waiting time. I took my own sweet time roaming around taking photos. I asked him to proceed towards Kanchanur which was located 5km from Suryanar Koil. During the middle of the journey, I asked him to stop for a while near a pond and I spent a few minutes taking photographs. Natural beauty was awesome! The weather was good and I wanted to use it to the maximum.


Rural Tamilnadu.

At around 16:30hrs, I entered Sukran Temple (Venus). This was the last temple in my list and I am happy that I had the chance to visit all 9 temples. I had a good darshan and the crowd was a bit less compared to Sun temple. Lord Sukran is said to bestow health, prosperity, marriage and happiness to the devotees. My auto guy dropped me back at bus-stand and after waiting for 15 minutes, I got a bus back to Kumbakonam. Since all these 4temples were located in different directions, I need to come back to Kumbakonam every time to board a bus before proceeding in another direction. But I enjoyed travelling so I didn’t mind. It was a real stress buster and I was looking for a break like this.

I returned back to my lodge at 1830hrs. I took a bath as my body was full of dust due to travel. I refreshed myself and walked to Hotel Archana and I preferred to have my dinner in an AC room. I was surprised to find that my favourite Chilli Parotta was available here. My joy knew no bounds and I immediately ordered one set of Chilli Parotta with Onion salad. After my dinner, I returned back to my room with a soda bottle. You guessed it wrong! I was not going to drink alcohol! I like having soda! I went to sleep around 9PM and I got up only at 6:30AM. I checked out at 8AM. Since I had occupied the room for more than 24 hours, I needed to pay Rs.250/- instead of Rs.125/-.


Thingaloor-Chandran Temple entrance.

I was returning back to Chennai the same day and my train was expected to arrive at 10:35hrs. I had more than 2 hours at hand. I decided to see a couple of temples nearby to my lodge before leaving Kumbakonam. Kumbeshwar temple was near to my lodge. I paid a visit to it. After visiting Kumbeshwar temple, I visited Ramanathaswamy Temple. I was impressed with the temple’s architecture and most importantly I liked the temple’s elephant. I love animals and I like spending time with them.

In life, I had lost my temper sometimes especially when I had faced injustice or when I was a victim of injustice. But showing hatred as revenge never gave me any happiness. I changed gradually to be a silent person. Why should someone’s rude/harsh behaviour dictate my character? Why should I change? I would rather live my life like this elephant peacefully without harming anyone else. The mahout was a bit harsh to the elephant and he was simply pricking it with his spear. It requires more courage to face a tough situation. It requires more courage and maturity to forgive a person. It wouldn’t have taken much time for the elephant to hit back at him.

I spent around 30 minutes at the temple observing various sculptures, drawings and paintings. The entire story of Ramayana was depicted in the form of drawings on the walls of the temple. It took 30 minutes for me to read the entire story.


Suryanar Koil Temple entrance.

I boarded an auto to the railway station and I reached 15 minutes before time. I was taking 6854 Cholan Express back to Chennai. The train was running late by 25 minutes and it arrived at Kumbakonam only at 1100hrs. I was a bit excited and nostalgic as I was travelling in Cholan Express after nearly 15 years. The last trip in Cholan was in meter gauge and those were good old days. WDP-3A#15518 locomotive was the power for my train. Meter gauge days are gone and now broad gauge locomotives have taken duty. My seat was a Side Lower Berth in the left side of the compartment. As my train went through rural country side, I observed that these places haven’t changed much except for the fact that now the trains are running on broad gauge tracks. My train entered Chidambaram around 1220hrs.


Sun God.

Chidambaram was my mother’s native town. I use to visit Chidambaram often once upon a time, before a family quarrel destroyed everything, but later it was restored with the blessings of God. My maternal uncle use to take me to this railway station everytime to show this Cholan Express when I was a kid. I use to wave at the train, climb on the engine, play with pups in the station. I use to have poppins sitting on the station bench and watch trains. Things have changed now. I am old and no more a kid. I can’t sit and observe trains, buses like kids. The old station benches are not to be seen. Meter gauge trains are no more. Even my uncle is no more. Chidambaram station has lost its charm. I wish I could get back to old days.


Kanchanur Sukran Temple entrance.

I settled comfortably in my side lower berth looking outside the window enjoying the rural country side. It was a hot sunny day with a lot of dust. My train reached Villupuram at 1430hrs. I got down and purchased a fanta bottle to quench my thirst. My train departed Villupuram at 1440hrs.


Return journey in the legendary Cholan Express!!!!

Since it was a single-line section, my train wasn’t given preference and hence it was put in loop line to allow other prestigious trains to cross. At Perani, Vaigai Express crossed my train. At Karunguzhi, my train was made to wait for nearly 20 minutes to allow Mumbai-Nagercoil Express to cross. After scheduled halt at Chengalpet, my train didn’t halt anywhere and proceeded all the way to Egmore.


WAG-5 with a freighter. Spotted just before entering Villupuram from main line.

My friend Manikantan was at Kodambakkam station and he informed me through SMS that he would be standing near the level crossing and he told that he would wave at me. The train was a bit slow and I was able spot Mani standing near the tracks and I waved at him!


2635 Vaigai Express crosses my train at Perani.

I reached Egmore at 1745hrs. It was indeed a long tiresome journey as I wasn’t travelling in AC. But I love travelling in sleeper class as it allows me to have a good look at the country-side. I reached home at 1900hrs.I distributed prasadham to everyone at home. It was a classic trip!!

-Krishna Kumar.S
Chennai, Tamilnadu.